Fall 2010 Review: Prada

Prada's exercise in womanly dressing. Photo credit: Marcio Maderia

In her distinctively perverse way, Miuccia Prada’s Fall presentation was an amalgamation of real clothes for real women. The collection was straightforward, wearable, and completely desirable.

The shapes were all about big bosoms, nipped waists, and full skirts, making one wonder if the reigning queen of teenage catwalk waifs has finally embraced a womanlier figure?

Black, burgundy, tan, and hints of blue punctuated full wool dresses, naughty leather skirts, and supple knitwear. A fabulous boxed pattern ran throughout, sometimes paired with dresses with ruffled busts on what will undoubtedly be the season’s chicest.

Knit coats had leather and fur collars. Pants were cropped to Audrey Hepburn shortness. Chunky knee-high socks lead the eye to proper, bow-tied slingbacks.

Prada is undeniably at the forefront of fashion and this showing certainly solidified that. As many designers are returning to the core of their brand, Prada does it with mastery, ease, and unpretentiousness.

This collection will definitely be a commercial—and editorial—success.

Fall 2010 Review: Altuzarra

Looks from Altuzarra fall 2010. Photo credit: Marcio Madeira

In his third collection under his eponymous label, Joseph Altuzarra articulated an assured, powerful, sexy woman.

Come fall, she'll don sleek black leather--jackets, skirts, dresses and bodysuits. Altuzarra also showed voluminous black fur, deep-red velvet suiting, and lace-up knee-high boots.

High collars, vampy slits, and sharp tailoring gave the collection a menacing quality. The collection solidified Altuzarra's love for body-conscious cuts and edgy design.

While a strong showing, the influences of Givenchy and Gucci-era Tom Ford cannot be ignored. The collection's strongest points were derived from Ford, circa fall 2003.

If Joseph Altuzarra wants to continue his red-hot ascent, he will need to find his own voice.

A Playful Man

Photo credit: Tom Ford

Electric blue, light pink, deep purple, and bright white suits. Paisley, plaid, and polka dot shirts, ties, and pocket squares. Floral beach robes and square-cut swim trunks.

Not quite the Tom Ford equation, is it?

Well, for spring and summer, it is. That's right, Tom Ford is playful.

Ford is his brand--daring, intelligent, and extremely refined. (He is known for his uniform of an unbuttoned crisp white shirt and a dark suit.)

And now, for spring 2010, exuberant color and whimsical print is incorporated into the Ford lifestyle.

Since 2007, the label has featured wide, peak lapels and coordinating print combinations. The look continues to draw inspiration from the 70s, a favorite era of Ford's.

The collection remains incredibly fresh and modern because of Ford's knowledge of culture (not every man wants to look like he stepped off the Mad Men set) and proportion (he is experimenting with a shorter jacket length).

With the bold color, graphic print, and perfect cut, it's going to be a fun summer with Tom Ford.

Because when the weather warms, don't we just want to be so fresh and so clean?

Michelle Obama Inaugural Style Watch, Part Three

Michelle Obama, in Jason Wu at one of tonight's many inaugural balls. Photo credit: AP

This is a night that will live in fashion infamy...

Michelle Obama chose an embellished, one-shoulder white gown by up-and-coming designer Jason Wu. Where's the modernity? Where's the bold color? Where's the style?

Michelle Obama Inaugural Style Watch, Part Two

Michelle and Barack Obama in Washington DC on Inauguration Day. Photo credit: Reuters

The First Lady chose a beaded creation by designer Isabel Toledo for today's Inauguration. The monochromatic yellow symbolizes optimism, hope, and joy. Mrs. Obama accessorized her look with green leather pumps, a choice I applaud. She's not the most stylish women ever, but she is definitely a risk taker, which is always a wonderful thing.

But tonight's the big test -- her Inaugural gown. Stay tuned...

Damn the Recession: Lanvin's Pre-Fall Look

Pre-fall creations from Alber Elbaz at Lanvin. Photo credit: Lanvin

Alber Elbaz has done it again at Lanvin! This time, he layered everything on for pre-fall: crystal embroidery, lace details, tulle veiling, fur jackets, and strands of gorgeous necklaces, all with an exuberant "damn the recession" attitude.

It was nice to see fewer of Elbaz's signature one-shoulder looks and a longer length for evening. But this collection didn't lose Lanvin's extremely refined sensibility. Elbaz's mix of varying textures, layers, and accessories all work together to create a complex and interesting look.

One problem I've had with recent Lanvin collections is its failure to present day looks. Elbaz can whip up a myriad of "after 5" party dresses, that is already established. What I loved about his pre-fall show is that we finally see how the Lanvin woman dresses for day. 

His artsy T-shirt and cropped jacket combo can be paired with a pencil skirt or jeans for a day at the office or an afternoon out. The champagne draped blouse would be stunning under a day suit instead of worn with a floor-length skirt. And then there are Elbaz's wool coats (with or without a belt), which are great for wrapping up for protection from this frigid weather.

Because really, who cares about the economy if you're going to freeze to death? Don't worry, Lanvin will save you!