Twenty two rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré is home to Paris’ newest doctor – Alber Elbaz. But Elbaz isn’t treating broken bones or the common cold; he’s soothing the fashion soul. He is, in fact, the genius behind Lanvin, the couture house that has given Elbaz the ability to slowly develop his love affair for the smart, modern woman and the way she dresses. In return, the once sleepy label is now an estimated $220 million global business and a hot commodity among the fashion elite.
Moroccan-born and Israeli raised Elbaz moved to New York with only $800 and was hired by legendary fashion designer Geoffrey Beene. The young assistant studied under Beene for seven years until he was hired at Guy Laroche in 1996. At the Parisian house, in true Elbaz form, he rejuvenated the brand with much critical acclaim. In 1998, Elbaz was again a second-generation designer for one of fashion’s most iconic names – Yves Saint Laurent. Not until the acquisition of YSL by the Gucci Group, did Elbaz stop producing prêt-a-porter for the house. It was then, in 2000, that megastar designer Tom Ford took the reins, which is now fashion history.
Enter March 2002: the inception of the loveliest of fashion romances – Elbaz’s arrival at Lanvin. Founded in 1889 by Jeanne Lanvin, the French couturier was the go-to woman for sublime, timeless masterpieces that spanned generations. For the first time since Madame Lanvin’s death, the house has returned to its position at the top of French fashion, thanks to Elbaz.
The allure of Lanvin is its accessibility and easiness. Elbaz starts design at the waist – his erogenous zone of sorts– and the fabric never clings to the body, it skims, thus accommodating women of all shapes and sizes. The designer acknowledges the struggles of the modern woman, chief among them the desire for perfection. Women are expected to be flawless, he says, but Elbaz worships imperfections like wrinkles and weight gain. This dichotomy has evolved into a design manifesto for Elbaz.
Completely individualistic, every woman fills a Lanvin dress in a different way. Elbaz lives by the notion that fashion is not about the clothes. He told Style.com, “Clothes are not reflecting anything, people reflect. I think a good dress is a dress that disappears when you wear it. It’s not really about the dress that I do, it’s about the woman who wears it and what that dress does to her face.” When Elbaz sketches, he focuses not on the front and back view, but on what exists in between the clothes.
But whoever is in his clothes can’t ignore the sheer beauty of what they’re wearing. An Elbaz suit (a sensual sculpture if you will) gently lies on the skin and enhances the natural body. Brilliant asymmetry is executed on one-shouldered dresses to create volume and emphasis in all the right places. Fiercely powerful statement jewelry and sharp heels give looks an edge. Elbaz’s love for lightness is juxtaposed with a hard industrial zipper, tough leather gloves, or piercing crystal pendants. The Lanvin woman, though addicted to lightness, has to have something to keep her on the ground.
In a time of economic hardship when both retailers and consumers are cutting back expenditures, the Elbaz design principle is key. A Lanvin dress will look good on women who are thin, fat, tall, short, light-skinned, dark-skinned and everything in between. Elbaz also gives women the confidence that what they’re wearing will maintain its relevance years from now.
Elbaz is not only a master technician, but a brilliant colorist as well. He mixes the most sophisticated shades together; red and pink, maroon and deep violet, navy and black combinations put a sometimes quirky but always tasteful touch on Elbaz’s creations. Moreover, monochromatic looks are never boring because they are styled perfectly. The richness of the clothes and the contrast of textures among the fabrications, accessories, and colors add interest.
Many a Lanvin article is without pattern or print, but when Elbaz sends a print down the runway, it’s glorious. Case in point: the voluptuous blue leopard-spot dress from the Spring 2009 show that received instant applause upon debut. An even more playful side of the Lanvin woman can be found in the latest Resort collection. Elbaz showed polka dotted bias cut dresses, relaxed, deconstructed linen blazers and pants, and T-shirts printed with his artsy sketches. The collection translated into a joyous series of wearable, fun clothes. Also news from Resort: collaboration with Acne Jeans brings Lanvin fans the comfort and utility of denim!
Lanvin may be the world’s oldest fashion house still in business, but it’s the brand of the future and Alber Elbaz will the one to take it there. And in a time when feel-good clothes are needed, “Dr.” Elbaz sends you out fresh, healthy, and rejuvenated. Amen!
Photo credit: Marcio Madeira
